Wild Camping In Greece: Donoussa Island
This summer you decided to wild camping in Greece, in a beach on a dreamy island, but you still don’t know where. Ever heard about Donoussa? Prepare yourself because after this article, this small Greek island will be your next travel destination! We spend there 22 days in August 2019 doing wild camping, and yes it was one of the most memorable experiences we had. We decided to camp in two different beaches in the island of Donoussa and we have to say that waking up in front of such a clear blue sea is priceless. If you want to know more about Greek islands, check out this guide: it really made the difference for us! The time we spent there really changed us and we advise everybody to do free camping in Greece at least once in life. So, if you are wondering if it’s allowed to place your tent in amazing areas around Greece, here you’ll find all the answers to your questions.
How to Do Wild Camping in Greece
If around Europe free camping is mostly illegal, in Greece is tolerated. This means that it is not allowed, but a lot of people are doing it, especially Greeks. During summer all Greek islands are stormed by free campers with their tent ready to spend some night in amazing beaches with the best view on the sea. And all this, for free. An important thing to know before wild camping is that you’ll need a backpack. If you don’t own one yet, it’ll be really hard for you to reach wild camping spots with a normal luggage. We’re using this backpack since 2 years and it’s perfect whether you want wild camping or travel as a digital nomad. We have to specify a thing: there are two different types of wild camping in Greece. The first one is controlled free camping, this means you’re allowed to place your tent only in a determined place. On the other hand, you’ll have some comforts, for example toilets, showers and a taverna. The second option is uncontrolled wild camping. In this option , you’ll be free to camp pretty much everywhere you want, but you won’t have electricity, water and toilets. We experienced both types of camping and we can’t wait to share our experience with you. Are you ready? Keep on reading!
“Our Clothes Drying After Washing Them At Mersini's Spring ”
“Going At Mersini's Spring To Fill Bottles With Water”
Kedros: The Controlled Wild Camping
When we arrived in Donoussa the first place we camp in was Kedros beach. This small beach is really clean and has an incredibly clear water, but we decided to leave it just one night after we arrived. Why? Let me tell you the story. Kedros is organized like this: there are three fields behind the taverna where campers are allowed to stay. There is also a place where you can park your car or van coming from the road from the main village. All this is organized by the owner of the taverna that created a business over free camping giving showers, toilets and (expensive) food to the people camping behind his beach bar. Since we didn’t know that at the beginning, we placed our tent where we wanted until he came screaming “if you don’t camp where I tell you, I’ll call the police”. So, a little bit scared from his proposal we decided to place our tent in a pretty bad spot, with no shadow at all. During the night there was load music until 4am and at 8am we woke up in a tent at 40 degrees, under the hot Greek sun. The same morning we discovered that there is no police on the island and we decided to leave Kedros beach as soon as possible. We think that a lot of controlled wild camping look like this, so here we made a list of pros and cons of doing controlled free camping in Greece, and specially in Kedros.
“The Cluster Of Tents In Kedros”
“The Rudimentary Shower in Kedros Beach”
Our pros and cons of wild camping in Kedros Beach
Pros
Cons
Livadi: The Uncontrolled Wild Camping
After the first traumatising night in Kedros, we decided to move to a more isolated area far away from the different villages: Livadi Beach. It turned out being an incredibly good decision. In Livadi we found a community of Greek hippies living there almost permanently. The atmosphere is just amazing if you adapt yourself living without any comforts: no drinkable water, no showers, no toilets, no electricity and no internet. For the food, Eddy started spear fishing and we had rice or pasta with fish almost every day. You are not allowed to place your tent on the sand of the beach, but you can place it wherever you want in the land behind the beach. We finally place our tent between two olive trees with the view on the sea, a lot of shadow and a small kitchen created with some stones. We also had the chance to put our hammock between the trees to chill while reading a book or talking. We ended up staying there for 22 days. Maybe you are wondering about how we managed to wash ourselves and our clothes: simple! Just 25 minutes walk from Livadi there is the spring of Mersini, where we washed our clothes and ourselves in the middle of the nature. From Livadi we were reaching the port to buy food with a boat and we were moving around the island on foot. If you want to organize your vacation in Donoussa, check out our ultimate guide of Donoussa Island.
“The Peaceful Livadi Beach In Donoussa”
“Our Camp In Livadi Beach”
Our pros and cons of wild camping in Livadi Beach
Pros
Cons
“Our Simple Tent On The Beach In Livadi”
“The Catch Of The Day”
Wild Camping around the Island of Donoussa
There are also many other places where camping is legal. Here’s another two we found while walking on the island, but we are sure you can place your tent pretty much everywhere you want. If you want to discover the best beaches in Donoussa, give a look at our article!
The North of Donoussa: Kalotritissa
If you like rocky sand and you don’t mind wind, Kalotaritissa will be a nice option to camp. You’ll be in calm and you’ll have a cheap taverna nearby. You’ll also be able to wash your clothes and take a shower in the spring of Mersini that is one hour on foot from Kalotaritissa.
The South of Donoussa: Between Kedros and Livadi
We think that this is the best location on the island to do free camping. Really close to Kedros and the main village Stavros, it will permit you to take showers and wash your clothes in Kedros and to buy food in Stavros. You’ll also have a private access to the sea and you’ll have all the peace you want.
“Wild Camping In Kalotaritissa”
“Few Tents In The South Of Donoussa”
If you have some more questions about wild camping in Donoussa and Greece, feel free to leave us a comment below or contact us. We’ll be happy to reply you!
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Updated on: October 15, 2022
Lars
Hi. Thanks for your post! I have been thinking of visiting this island 🙂 When you say “south of Donoussa between Kedros and Stavros”, do you mean down south on the peninsula? Could you post pin on a Google map? 🙂
Eddy & Alessia
Hello Lars, we are so happy you liked the article! With Donoussa you can’t get wrong: such a beautiful destination 🙂 The place we talk about is a small beach you’ll see for sure if you walk on the main road from Kedros to Livadi: it’s just in the middle and it’s the only one you can reach by foot. Here’s the link to the pin on Google Map so that you have the right position: https://goo.gl/maps/bKNNp4NbL4bCuVkr9
Gavin
Hi
I loved camping at Livardi in 2017 & 2019 this year I went to Livardi in Aug and as I was putting up my tent in the afternoon I was informed that free camping at kendro and Livardi was not allowed due to corvid!
I hope this sittuation doest last I ended up sleeping on the beach two nights and no tent up!
Livardi this year was s big disappointment!
Gavin
DP
Hi,
it would be better to correct that it is no longer possible to free camping in the Cyclades unfortunately.
For a couple of years, Donoussa has already seen tight controls by local authorities, a similar argument for the other islands where it was possible to enjoy a bit of nature in freedom
yuval
hello (:
I really enjoyed reading about your experience, seems perfect.
about the tent and the small gas cooker – did you get it in DONOUSSA or brought it from the main land?
Carmen Lina Ferrante
HI! Do you know if it is still possible to do this in 2024? Thank you